Back in Burgundy

My first ever visit to Burgundy was when Beaune’s streets were full of food, wine and people during the Hospice de Beaune Wine Auction event in mid November of 2017. After visiting Beaune and Dijon, I knew I would be back. I have been fortunate enough to call Dijon (yes, like the mustard — insert eye roll) my home from September 2018 until April 2019. During my time here, I was an English assistant in a little town called Brochon. 

Place François Rude in the heart of Dijon

And while this, not too small yet not too large, town does have outstanding mustard, there is much more to do beyond waking up your sinuses on this spicy condiment.

Below are recommendations for dining options, night life, activities, coffee shops and more.

Things to Do

• Touch La Chouette (owl) — You’ll notice little golden triangle plaques on the ground around Dijon with La Chouette on them, leading to many interesting monuments. This owl on the Notre Dame church dates back to the 15th century and has become an iconic symbol of Dijon. 

Make your wish by touching the owl with your left hand while facing the same way as Abigail

• Tour Philippe Le Bon — This 5 euro, 45-minute visit of the tower provides some of the best views of Dijon.
• Musée Rude — Here you’ll find a showcase to Dijon sculpture François Rude with its most impressive piece: a gigantic statue replica of the North facade from the Arc de Triomphe. 

I was shocked by how big this actually was

• Les Halles Market — Occurring Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, this market has local produce ranging from fruits and veggies to meats, cheeses and much more. If it’s one of those chill Saturdays, sit at La Buvette bar where you can enjoy a little picnic accompanied by Burgundy wines. 
• Wander around town — Keep your eyes peeled for these stunning roofs around Dijon and Burgundy. 

My favorite roof in Dijon. It’s across from Chez Léon

• Parc de la Colombière — Rent a Divia bike (you’ll see these all around town) and make your way to this stunning park, which is perfect for children to play at or for a picnic; there is even a mini zoo inside. 
• Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne — While this museum is only in French, it is free for everyone and gives you an insight into what Dijon used to be like.

I wish this poster was for sale

• Théâtre Dijon Bourgogne — For those who can speak French, the theater is a great way to experience French culture.
• Mustard tasting — Go try a variety of interesting flavors at these two locations: Edmond Fallot and Maille. Pro tip: Try (and buy) the Maille black truffle mustard. It is out-of-this-world good (and depressingly expensive).

A mini mustard vending machine at Edmond Fallot

• Language café — Where you can go work on your language skills for a couple of hours. The attendees are alway changing, so any number of languages can be spoken each night! 
• Concerts at La Peniche and La Vapeur — Both locations offer great concerts, with La Peniche ones being free or cheap, and La Vapeur ones usually being more well-known artists. Pro tip: Use Jondi.fr to find out what’s going on in Dijon.

Sunset from Île aux Canards where La Péniche is located

• • Pro tip: Find some stellar Dijon postcards and old-style French posters (that are cheap) at the store next to this Dr. Wine Shop.

Restaurants 

• La Causerie des Mondes — You’ll find a small, daily handwritten (and vegetarian friendly) menu, which makes choosing easier. This is easily one of my fave Dijon restos. The organic dishes come in large portions; you can taste the love put into them.

I need to go back ASAP

• La Maharaja — I’ve been obsessed with Indian food lately, and this resto hits the spot while not breaking the bank. I opted for chicken tikka masala with cheesy naan bread. (They even have Époisses naan bread!!!) 
• Gril’Laure — While this resto is quite fancy inside, I would recommend ordering a pizza to go and heading over to Flannery’s just across the street to enjoy a Triple Karmeliet beer while watching the latest sports game. Pro tip: Get the chèvre et miel (goat cheese and honey) pizza.
• Crêperie La Licorne — Fulfill your savory AND sweet crêpe fix at this cute resto (don’t kid yourself into thinking you’ll only get one).
• SO — If you’re willing to splurge, then this is the place. Their outstanding wine list, coupled with their decadent French food, makes for a delectable multi-course meal. Ours ended with chocolate crème brûlée topped with lavender ice cream (this needs to be in my life more often). Pro tip: If they have pintade, GET IT.

Pintade with fabulous Burgundian wine

• Aki — For a change from French food, this tiny resto has some BOMB ramen (you may want to make a reservation, as it gets busy). 
• Marco Polo — Their chèvre chaud salad (aka the best French salad ever) is incredible. You’ll find tasty pizzas, tartiflette and more as well. 

Burgundian Must-Try Specialties

• Oeufs en meurette (eggs in red wine sauce) — It’s like a stew with a soft boiled egg on top. It seems strange, but it truly is delightful.
• Boeuf Bourguignon — L’Epicerie et Cie does a tremendous one and has an old France vibe. You can also make it yourself with produce from the market if you have the right kind of pot.
• CHEESE — My fave shops are Le Chalet Comtois and Fromagerie Porcheret.
  • Époisses — This pungent, melty cheese is my absolute favorite and originates from Burgundy. It is much more expensive than my normal go-to 2 euro camembert, but you can find cheaper options at the weekly markets. 
  • Delice de Bourgogne — A stark contrast to the strong Époisses, this milder cheese is lightly pungent and especially creamy. Pro tip: Skip paying for wine and cheese at a resto and instead eat and drink at chez-toi (your house)! 
• Escargot (snails) — My least fave of all French food, but you have to try it at least once.
• Cuisse de Grenouille (Frog Legs) — *I have not yet tried these.* Apparently there is a season (end of winter/beginning of spring) for them.
• Gougères — These balls of fluff are a savory treat found at most bakeries. A sweet version can sometimes be found as well.

• Kir and kir royal drinks — Kir is chardonnay with a little bit of crème de cassis added, whereas a kir royal uses Champagne or crémant de Bourgogne (another must try drink — it’s similar to Champagne but cheaper). As crème de cassis originates from Burgundy, you’ll have no trouble finding a kir on the menu.

  Boulangeries

If you know me, then you know that I’m a baguette snob and that I love a quality, freshly baked pastry made with that wonderful French butter. The French always say that the best boulangerie is just around the corner from their house, but here is a list of my favorites.

•  Maison LOUOT Claude — A bit spendy but worth it, is their abricot et chocolat macaron (best macaron I’ve ever consumed). Their baguettes are also divine. Pro tip: Get a baguette tradition because it’s le meilleur (the best). 
• Boulangerie Pâtisserie Fremont — Fulfilling my need for heart-shaped bread for Valentine’s Day, this bakery frequently makes seasonal treats and always has a vast selection of yummy treats (I wish I had tried more).
• Aux Délices de la Chouette — One of my all-time favorite pastries is croisant aux amandes. I won’t even describe to you how wonderful it is; just got to get it.

Coffee / Hot Chocolate / Tea

• Le Comptoir des Colonies — With teas ranging from India to China, good luck making a choice. Pro tip: Head there after 15h to be seated on their fancy second floor (or, as the French say: premier étage).
• Espresso-t — Where you’ll find the best chai latte EVER.
• La Comedie – Their hot chocolate is the best I’ve had so far, but was not a true French hot chocolate.
• JSB — New to Dijon, their tea is wonderful as well as their chocolate chip cookies. Make sure to get a comfy seat with a great view on their classy, chandelier-decorated second floor.  

Drinks

• Cafe de L’Industrie — Surrounded by historic images of Dijon, you can enjoy budget-friendly drinks.
• BerThoM — For all you beer lovers, this is an ideal happy hour bar with cheap La Chouffe (less than 5 euros) and usually has a younger crowd.
• Flannery’s — If you love to play darts, then you’ve come to the right place. Try their cider as well. 
• Monsieur Moutarde — Looking for a fancier night? Head over to this centrally located bar. The decor is divine, and if you’re feeling adventurous, try their mustard cocktail that comes in a mustard jar! 

Wine / Vineyards / Wineries

Burgundy is an internationally renowned wine region, so expect a stupefying amount of wine selection. In France, you can find cheap, good wine, but don’t be afraid to splurge for some quality vintages.

Many wine tastings will offer only Pinot noir and chardonnay. My love for stainless steel, unoaked chardonnays began in Burgundy where I discovered that not all chardonnays tasted like the oaked Californian brands. 

My ride to work is through La Côte d’Or, where I was able to see first-hand this fall why its name means the Golden Coast. All of the vineyards’ leaves turned golden yellow that could be seen for miles. To get to smaller wineries along La Côte d’Or take the MobiGo bus line 113 or 114.

• Au Vieux Millésime — As a wine store and wine bar, this a perfect place to try wines and take some home with you. Go hungry so that you can get the meat and cheese platter, too.  
• Domaine Gille — A friend from university (the power of a small college) works here and gave us a sit-down tasting of many of their wines. Many smaller producers offer tastings in a more intimate setting, just make sure to call ahead. 
• La Pharmacy cave and wine bar — Not only can you have a nice glass of wine here but also you can buy an older vintage for just 10 euros. (The wines may have been compromised, so you may find a gem or a dud — use it for Boeuf Bourguignon for the latter.) 
• Domaine Chanson wine tasting in Beaune — For 15 euros you can taste four wines: two whites and two reds.
  

  Wine tasting at Domaine Chanson with my best friends Molly and Abigail!

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

· Ne rêve pas ta vie, vis tes rêves ·

Paris – A Few of My Preferred Activities

Being the incredibly dynamic city it is, Paris effectively maintains its historical roots while offering ever-changing events. Having done the typical tourist attractions numerous times, I strive to discover something new each time I return. Below is a compilation of some of my favorite activities as well as recommendations from Frenchies.

À FAIRE 

Musées

• Musée de Cluny – Currently has an exhibit on unicorns running until Feb. 25, 2019. The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries dating back to the Middle Ages were magnificent.
• Musée de l’Orangerie – For the fine art lovers, impressionist and post-impressionist artwork is abundant. Some of my favorite pieces are showcased here, but what really stands out are Monet’s lengthy water lily paintings wrapped around custom-made walls designed.

You’ll also find paintings by Renoir and other well-known artists

• Musée Européenne de la Photographie – The JR exhibition running until Feb. 10, 2019 was stunning, demonstrating incredible creativity by the photographer through his black and white work.

• Foundation Louise Vuitton – Even though the lines can be quite extensive, and this will also be found at the top of tourist to-do lists, the exhibits here are constantly changing, and the building architecture is exquisite.

• L’Atelier des Lumières – This exposition has been extended until Jan. 6, 2019. SO GO ASAP. The creativity was awe inspiring; I’ve never seen anything like it. It was enjoyable just sitting on the ground and watching the projections of art by Gustav Klimt and other Viennese artists constantly change. Make sure to book your tickets ahead of time because it always sells out.

Activités

• As a big Amelie fan, seeing the café where she worked in the film was a must for me. You’ll find this petit café in Montmartre.

• Le Social Bar does record nights occasionally as well as Blind Test, (a game where you guess song names and artists) so be sure to check out their schedule. I have yet to visit this bar, but this is one of the first places I’ll be heading to when I’m back in Paris (because old French music has a special place in my heart).
• La Ruée vers l’Orge – If you love beer and want a variety of options from all over France and other countries, head to this bar.
• Rue Crémieux – While you’ll probably find this on other tourist recommendations, I happily found it on accident just wondering around Gare de Lyon.

House goals

• Studi 28 Cinema – Sometimes it can be quite difficult to find quality French movies. I was looking for an authentic French cinema experience and found Studio 28, offering different French movies weekly.
• Le mur des je t’aime – If you’re in the 18e arrondissement, make a quick stop as this wall.
• Parc des Buttes Chaumont is a perfect example of a Parisian park. Parisians flock to parks when the sun is even slightly out, and it’s la verité that they’ll bring wine and chips for an aperitif. Since I’ve been trying to assimilate to French culture as best as possible, I did the same.

It was nice to see luscious amounts of greenery in the midst of Paris

• Go thrift shopping. Friperies (thrift shops) in les marais offer incredible deals. My friend found two jackets in the one euro bins. I found a cute winter jacket for only 30 euros that would normally cost at least 100 euros at a store like MANGO. There are many kilo shops as well where the price is determined by how much the clothing weighs.
• Picnic along the Seine River. Save some money by heading to the nearest Casino (grocery store chain, not an American Casino) to grab picnic supplies (don’t forget Spéculoos or a baguette), and enjoy the scenery along the Seine.
• Run a race. If you’re into running, plan your trip around the Paris half or full marathon (they’re on different weekends in the spring). Runners race through Parisian streets and along the Seine River. The half marathon doesn’t include a view of the Eiffel Tower but is still just as exhilarating. Pro tip: listen to some French music during the race for the best experience.

My first foreign half marathon!

• Play games with Frenchies. If you have some French friends, be sure to ask them to bring some games they typically play or find a pétanque court – it might be hogged by old men though.
• Walk around Paris. Not many things make me as happy as walking along Paris’ cobbled streets when the sun is out and the bakeries are emitting that freshly baked bread aroma. Paris is such a walkable and stunning city, so much so, that I can’t emphasize enough how incredible it is to walk instead of talking the metro whenever possible.

Go get lost to find something you didn’t put on your itinerary.

Other places to visit:

• Le Marché aux Puces Vanves
• Parc Monceau
• Musée Carnavalet
• Musée Édith Piaf
• Place Dauphine
• Le Jardin Albert Kahn
• Fountain Bleu
• La Recyclerie

À MANGER

• La Félicita – Finding something to do other than musuem hopping on Sunday can be difficult sometimes. If you are looking for some stellar food/drinks, head to this grand place with amazing ambiance.
• 

• La Parisienne by Gare de Lyon – French bakeries are the way to my heart; they don’t hurt my budget either. Not only can you grab a freshly baked baguette as well pastries but also most shops have sandwiches and items for breakfast, lunch AND dinner.
• Fermier Gourmet – If you’re looking for some outstanding duck as well as to-go options, Fermier Gourmet has reasonably priced canard and delicious sides.

Make sure you’re hungry when you go

• Café Chez Prosper in the Nation arrondissement, you’ll find some typical French dishes that pair perfectly with the classic French ambiance. Order their margaret de canard, which comes with a side of excellent ratatouille. And don’t pass on dessert; in fact, go with as many friends as possible so that you can try more than just one dessert. My friend and I ordered French classics, chocolate mousse and ile flottante (floating island), which is merengue floating on creme anglais.

• La Cerise sur La Pizza. The Belleville neighborhood is well-know for its asian food, but my Parisian friend adores this pizza restaurant, La Cerise sur La Pizza. You’ll find a variety of typical French and Italian pizzas with toppings such as duck, spicy sausage, reblochon cheese and goat cheese.

I learned that this is a play on words. It translates to the cherry on the pizza (like the cherry on the cake)

Le Panier was délicieuse

• Belleville is not only well-know for its asian food scene but also graffiti art.

• Chez Marianne – This Mediterranean food was recommend by a friend. It’s a nice change from normal Parisian food.

Most of you probably know this, but avoid getting food by the Eiffel Tower (especially don’t eat a crepe) – I never thought crepes could be bad, but this one was the worst I’ve ever had.

There was Nutella on it though, so I still ate it all

For the best up-to-date recommendations, go to Anne Ditmeyer’s website, follow her on Instagram and subscribe to her newsletter. She’s an American who became French and is currently living her best life in Paris.

Kickass Krakow, Poland

Poland had unjustly been overlooked as a bucket list country and was one that I knew very little about. Now, I tell every person I meet to TRAVEL TO POLAND. This country is incredibly inexpensive and extremely gorgeous.

Krakow, followed by Warsaw and Gdansk, was the first stop on my week-long Poland trip.

While these beautiful Polish towns made for incredible sites to see, they held a much darker and somber history – one that unfortunately was less than 100 years ago. The Jewish population suffered immensely in this country.

Sunsets in Old Town

Krakow is often said to be prettier than Warsaw because Warsaw took most of the bombings during WWII; I tend to agree. Krakow was absolutely gorgeous and had less modernized buildings outside of the Old Town (Stare Miasto).

Take the Flixbus when you can while in Poland, you get to see the picturesque countryside and can use wifi. These buses come often, which is nice when I accidentally booked my bus from Krakow to Warsaw at 4 a.m. and miss it thinking that it was at 4 p.m. (This silly American forgot it should have said 16).

The planning of this trip was hastily done, so I ended up in Poland during their week of holidays at the beginning of May. May 1 is Labor Day/May Day, and May 3 is Constitution Day. Fortunately, these holidays didn’t impact my travels too much.

Polish flags everywhere!

Where to stay:

Sometimes not doing any research results in the best surprises. Case and point – staying at Greg and Tom Beer Hostel – aka the best hostel I have ever stayed in. I cannot give them enough praise.

Not only were the prices inexpensive but also the location was central and felt safe. They offered free breakfast where you could take a sandwich, resulting in free lunch, AND they offered free dinner with FREE beer (make sure to sign up for this as soon as you arrive).

The staff members were incredibly nice and everything was clean. I went early in the week not expecting anyone to be at this party hostel but with the lack of research, I soon realized I was there during some of Poland’s national holidays, making this hostel quite full and lively. No complaints. GO book your stay now.

Check out their other locations as well.

What to do :

• Walk or ride around Old Town and other quarters. With limited time to walk everywhere, which I normally enjoy doing, I hopped on Krakow City Tour (there are go-carts spread around town) by myself for a tour of the city. It cost 200 PLN (about $50) for two hours. The tour offers the choice of different Krakow quarters, so I chose a tour of Old Town and the Jewish Ghetto, skipping the Jewish Quarter. The driver mentioned different aspects of this country’s history, told short stories and gave restaurant recommendations, which was then accompanied by a recorded audio guide that delves into Poland’s dark past.

• Every hour you can witness the St. Mary’s Trumpet Call in the Old Town Square. The trumpeter plays in each cardinal direction and waves at the crowds below when he’s finished. Make sure to wave back at him for good luck.

You can see the golden trumpet in the top right window

• Take a day tour to Auschwitz. Many of these tours will depart from Krakow.

• Get scared by a Night Ghost Tour. This is with the Yellow Umbrella Tour, which is free – you just tip at the end. Beginning at 9 p.m. the tour took us to different buildings around Old Town while the guide told creepy stories of what used to happen in these places. It was entertaining and a different activity to do at night. Some of the places we walked by had waiters wearing traditional clothing and were playing traditional music while customers danced.

The coolest stained-glass window I’ve ever seen

• Go lick some salt at the Wieliczka Salt Mines. Get there for the earliest tour at 8 a.m. to maximize your day, have a smaller tour group and a less crowded mine tour. After taking the train to get to the mines, there weirdly wasn’t another train until much later in the day, so I took the 304 bus back into town. Make sure to check the times for the tours because they will change depending on the season. I was able to book my tour the day of, but I would recommend booking online if possible.

Make sure to sneak a lick of salt

• Stop by Schindler’s Factory. Though I was only able to see the exterior and due to time constraints not visit this museum, I would recommend going. I was advised to watch the Schindler’s List movie beforehand, too.

What to eat: 

• Eat as many pierogis as possible. You’ll find these at most restaurants. The filling options of these dumplings are endless (there are even dessert pierogis), but you’ll find Polish classics everywhere. I asked for a traditional pierogi from Przypiecek, which was filled with sausage, cabbage and a light sauce.

When you need pierogis at any time of day

• Ariel – The Krakow City Tour guide said it was the best Jewish restaurant ever.
• Somewhat similar to bagels, this obwarzanek krakowski Polish snack can be found in Old Town from the blue cart street vendors.

It was good, but I wanted something to go with it – they got nothin’ on baguettes though

• Jabikowa Kruszynka was delightful. This was like an apple streusel, and it wasn’t too sweet.

Find this treat at Lajkonik – Piekarnia I Kawiarnia

• Zapiekanka is popular street food you’ll find all over. It’s a half baguette with varying toppings like cheese, meat and ketchup.

This was a vegetarian Zapiekanka, loaded with cheese, mushrooms, green onions and ketchup

Unfortunately, this list is definitely missing quite a few things that I wasn’t able to complete. Krakow was one of my most favorite cities I’ve ever been to, and I deeply regret not spending more time there. Looks like I’ll just have to return soon.

Helpful Polish Vocab 

Chestch – Hello

Jenwinkya – Thank you

Nasterovia – Cheers

A Lovely Weekend in Lisbon, Portugal

My friend Molly and I decided we wanted to visit a new country together in February. Lisbon was an easy choice because of its warmer climate.

Where to stay: 

Goodnight Hostel – Lisbon was recommended to me by a friend, and I’m glad we chose it. It’s an easy 30-minute metro ride from the airport and has a friendly, bilingual staff. The hostel’s nautical theme decor was one of my favorite aspects. The location was perfect for us to walk everywhere as well as take the metro to farther away attractions. Not only was it a cheap stay ($36 for two nights) but also offered a free and filling breakfast (try the pancakes with Nutella) and free Sangria every night at 7 p.m. Remember to bring your own towel or rent one for one euro.

Artwork, such as this fish, was around every corner

What to do:

• Wander the stunning streets, admiring the varying tiled building exteriors, up the hill to Castelo São Jorge (Castle of St. Jorge). Atop this old castle there’s a beautiful view overlooking Lisbon. Entrance fee: 5 – 8.50 euros

• Make sure to also go down small streets on your way back down for hidden gems. And just walk around Lisbon as much as possible to see the varying tiled designs, such as the ones below.

MmM     

• Check out this covered market (I think it’s a temporary one) just a couple blocks around the corner from the hostel. You’ll find booths with pastries, meat and cheese plates, candied nuts and many other typical Portuguese options.

Haven’t seen a more beautiful market tent

A cheap and delicious lunch from this market that left me feeling like I needed to eat a vegetable

• Time Out Market is a popular lunch and dinner spot, and rightfully so, but it can be more expensive. You’ll find food such as croquets, burgers, meat and cheese, sushi, pad thai and Portuguese fish dishes.

My plan was to get salad for lunch, but I ended up with this savory, bun-less ox burger instead

• Praça do Rossio (Rossio Square) – Admire the architecture and water views of this grand square. You can get a coffee or just stroll around while taking in the sunshine.

Rossio Square in front of us

• Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries) – This monument is a bit farther away, so we took a train to get there, admiring the gorgeous water scenery the whole way. 

•  Next to this monument you can find Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery). Unfortunately, the line was too long, so we didn’t have enough time to go inside.

• Ride a trolly – For some reason the beautiful and iconic yellow ones that we saw were covered in advertisements, which only leaves the front to be photographed, making it more difficult than this red one.

Well equipped with Wi-Fi (you should be looking at the streets not your phone (lol, I sound like my father))

What to eat:

• You can’t go to Lisbon without trying pastel de nata. You can find them almost anywhere, which is terrible because they’re so delicious!

Molly couldn’t wait to try it

• Pastel de nata isn’t the only one you must try. This almond pastry, Tarte de Amêndoa, was another one of my favorites and also everywhere.

I loved the almond, and Molly loved the apple tart

• Bolo de arroz was another recommended dessert I found online. It pairs perfectly with a cappuccino.

As you can tell I love trying pastries

• Not pictured is Pastel de Tentúgal because I ate it all before realizing I hadn’t taken a photo. Before going to Portugal, I watched À Pleines des Dents on Netflix where it showed how this pastry is made and boy, is it cool. While it clearly takes a lot of work to make, unfortunately, this was my least favorite because of how dry it was.

There are more pastry options than I could try in one weekend, so looks like I’ll need to be heading back in the future.

• Cod dishes are popular in Lisbon. Cod gratin was my second night dinner at Restaurante Vela Branca. (Fish dishes usually aren’t usually something I prefer). When the waiter brought this out the smell was marvelous. I was so excited to eat it, in fact, that I burned my mouth.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad gratin…

Being in Lisbon during the winter was exactly what I needed since I was used to cold and rain in France. I would recommend going to Lisbon in February because it’s still warm (but not too warm) and it’s the off season (I don’t enjoy crowds).

Absolutely loved these streets

After leaving Lisbon, I realized that I wish we had more time to visit other cities in Portugal because I also have seen and heard good things about these beautiful places.

Remember to look up when walking because you’ll find artwork like this

New Year’s Eve Adventure in Venice

The firework show lasted about 20 minutes

Knowing that my brother and I would be in Italy for the New Year, I decided to pick a fairly large and popular destintation so that we could ensure there would be some spectacular festivities.

After arriving at AWA Venice Apartments San Marco, an employee gave us recomendations about the best and worst places to view the fireworks – more on that later.

If you want to cook, then these apartments are a great choice. You can also skip the crowds and watch the fireworks from the rooftop.

Our New Year’s Eve breakfast was the best combo: cannolis and cappuccinos.

Pro tip: try the cannolis with an orange slice!

I adore Italien cappuccinos, but the way you have to order coffee in Italy is something I could do without. Having to order at the register and then stand in another line to give them your order ticket just seems more chaotic and complicated, espcially for tourists.

After breakfast, we walked around most of Venice.

Two of the most photogenic things in Venice: gondolas and buildings

I read that you should make a dinner reservation because of how crowded the restaurnts can get during this celebration. I, however, didnt make one because I figured we could just find something to eat once we got there. Walking around town around 18h,we saw many restaurants weren’t crowded; that came later in the evening.

Winter outifits for gondoliers include a vest so that their iconic striped shirts are still viewable

Pizza was calling to us, so we found a place with some large slices. This was still a tasty dinner while also being much cheaper.

 

Take a picture at St. Mark’s before the show!

The hotel employee recommended going along the river by Piazza San Marco/St. Mark’s Square around 22h, and if we wanted to get there early, there would be people playing music at 21h. He then advised agaisnt going out to the point of the island because you’re too close to the fireworks, resulting in a neck ache.

After arriving around 21h30 where the hostel employee told us and finding no music, we wandered to the bathroom. It was suprising that no one had started grabbing a spot yet.

Being in Venice for the holidays is macigcal because of how many lights they put up

The narrow alleyways on the way to the toilets were clausterphobically crowded while the crowds still had yet to grow near the water by the time we got back. We found a nice viewing point as close to the water as possible, not far behind many people. Around 23h, we bought a bag of chips to pass the time. I would recommend taking your time to get a spot and bringing some snacks!

Our train to Rome was on New Year’s Day. On our way to the train station we experienced firsthand what flooding in Venice was like. My boots have still not recovered from all the water we had to walk through.

Representing the omnipresent possibility of Venice’s future underwater, this street artwork is one of my favorites. Be on the lookout for other famous characters under water.

Even with the floods, I wouldn’t recommend buying a water bus pass because the island is small enough to walk everywhere. The walk to the station was about 30 minutes from where we stayed and doing it with suitcases (up and down numerous staired bridges) was bearable.

Xmas in Aix

When I left Aix in 2015 to go home five days before Christmas, I was excited to see my family but sad to be leaving France; now, two years later, the roles were reversed. I was excited to be spending a French Christmas with my host mom but sad I wouldn’t be with my family.

Same picture, different year.

Fortunately, my host mom, Andréa, is an amazing woman who let me stay with her for five days and showed me what a true French Christmas is like. Being back in her house made it feel like no time has passed since I was a student there.

Andréa, Augustin and me at the Marché de Noël in Aix

I got the sense that Christmas Eve is a larger celebration than Christmas Day in France since many of my American friends went to French parties that night and so did Augustin, Andréa’s grandson.

Fontaine de la Rotonde à Aix

On Christmas Eve chez-Andréa, she made us boudin blanc, which is a type of sausage made with milk instead of blood. I will be looking for it when I’m back in the states.

I hadn’t realized how different the French Christmas food was compared to what we eat at my house.

For Christmas we bought many of the normal French dishes. Foie gras with toast, butter and fig jam was a flavorful appetizer (one we almost didn’t get to enjoy because we forgot toast at the store). Since we forgot bread, we ran to the store on Christmas day, which of course was closed. Andréa then suggested a small bakery around the corner. When we arrived we saw no fresh bread…The owner then handed us a bag of hard toast, and we took it! I’ve now tried foie gras with that toast, a special spiced toast and a fig bread; all have been exceptional!

On Christmas Day, I played American and French Christmas music while we cooked. Hearing Andrea try to sing to the English music was adorable – she doesnt know much English. She loves Jazz music, so she absolutely loved Michael Bublée.

Christmas Feast (which we ate for lunch):

Appetizer:

Foie gras with butter and homemade fig jam on toast

Main Course: 

Pintade, which is a type of bird they obviously eat more of since I have never heard of it before. It was filled with stuffing, but not stuffing like Americans are used to. The French have stuffing made with meat, not bread. So our pintade was stuffed with a mixture of foie gras, chestnuts and other meats. I would recomend trying it!

Honestly, I love everything Andréa makes

The meat was accompanied by mashed potatoes with a chestnut sauce and green beans.

It was French Christmas, so we obviously had Champagne, too.

Went all out with Rothschild

Dessert:

Bûche de Noël!!!! (Yule Log)

We obviously had leftovers, which were just as good the next day.

This cake completely lived up to my expectations and was worth the expensive 30 euro price tag.

Other Christmas treats:

• Marrons glaces – Glazed Chestnuts. I think I prefer savory chestnuts but had to try these. They’re expensive at Béchard.
• Révillion chocolat  – They come in different flavors and are a Christmas chocolate. They are addictingly good and have quotes on the inside wrapper.
• Pompe à l’huile – A provencal Christmas treat, it is one of the 13 desserts of Christmas. The 13 represents Jesus and his 12 apostles.
• Santa Clause cookies – I also made my favorite Christmas cookies that are a family traditon. Augustin loved them and took some home with him.

A popular tradition in America is to see a movie on Christmas. I was surprised that the movie theater was open on a holiday in France, but we went and saw Promesse de l’Aube, a French movie about an author whose mother had extraordinary expectations for him.

Experiencing the different Christmas foods was a highlight of the trip but getting to talk to my host mom for hours about her life was the part that I enjoyed the most. She has some hilarious and crazy stories. I’m glad we were able to share Christmas together.

Andréa and her two sons as well as some baby pictures of her grandchildren

Frenchgiving

There are a handful of American assistants in Bourges. So, we decided we should celebrate Thanksgiving together with some of our French friends, all of whom have never experienced a Thanksgiving.

Everyone brought something different to make up our Thanksgiving feast.

Our menu consisted of:

Stuffing: A recipe from Michael’s aunt. It was the best stuffing I have ever had. We learned that French stuffing is usually made with meat rather than bread. Baguette stuffing is the BEST stuffing.

Buy 10 baguettes get 1 free. So French

 

Giblets: Large turkeys aren’t easy to find, but it wouldn’t be Thanksgiving without turkey. I’ve never tried giblets before; it was delicious! (Update: To get a turkey before Christmas in France you need to order one about a week in advance from a local butcher. I did this my second year in France while in Dijon. Cost: about 60 euros for 12 people).

Macaroni and cheese: Julia made some extraordinary mac and cheese using elemental and gruyère cheese. I’ll be making my mac and cheese with these cheeses from now on. (The Frenchies were really excited for mac and cheese.)

Brussel sprouts: Delicious and made my Michael’s American friend, Natalie, who came from Paris for the weekend.

Dessert:

Pumpkin pie and pumpkin cookies: Pumpkin pie is one of my favorite desserts this time of year. My mom makes THE best pumpkin pie and pumpkin cookies, so I felt obligated to share them with everyone. The French don’t ever use pumpkin for desserts, (normally just for soups and savory dishes) but they loved what I made!

Peanut butter pie: Ally shared an excellent peanut butter pie recipe with the French. Peanut butter isn’t popular here like it is in the U.S; tragic, I know.

Lemon bars: Julia’s friend, Laine, is doing TAPIF in Dijon. She brought lemon bars with her!

Slutty brownies: We shared a lot of culture… and made too many desserts

Even the burnt cookies were good

Supplies were limited, so the pies were in escargot dishes

 

Top 6 Foods to Eat in Paris

The best place to get food in Paris is ANY boulangerie.

Bakeries, known as boulangeries, are everywhere, making it easy to stop in and grab a snack or some lunch.

My family and I tried fancier restaurants, but always ended up enjoying bakery treats the most.

Simplicity is the key to why these foods are so delicious.

1. Pain au Chocolat

There was a bakery and a grocery store right below the apartment where we were staying. We bought pain au chocolat and brioche au chocolat every morning for breakfast.

Brioche au chocolat and pain au chocolat (Photo by Elizabeth Gibson)

2. Macarons

Macarons are a great snack. They come in many different flavors. They’re sold in most boulangeries and are even sold in McDonald’s. In the United States, we also have a different type of macaron.

Macarons (Photo by Elizabeth Gibson)

3. Escargot

Escargot (snail) is a popular dish that can be found at many restaurants in Paris. Trying snails is a must when traveling to Paris. Some people actually enjoy the taste and eat them regularly. However, when we tried them, I didn’t taste anything other than garlic and butter.

Escargots (Photo by Elizabeth Gibson)

4. Crêpes

Crêpes come in savory or sweet options. My favorite sweet crêpe is one with Nutella. Street vendors selling sweet crêpes can be easily found around Paris. Savory crêpes are delicious for dinner and can include foods like ham, cheese, mushrooms, chicken or eggs – whatever you prefer.

Crêpe au fromage et jambon (Photo by Elizabeth Gibson)

Crêpe au Nutella (Photo by Cynthia Gibson)

5. Croque Monsieur

A croque monsieur (ham and cheese sandwich) was an easy meal to grab for lunch when we had a busy day planned. There is just so much cheese and butter on it, all toasted to perfection, that it was impossible not to eat two for lunch.

Croque Monsieur (Photo by Elizabeth Gibson)

6. Profiterole

A profiterole is like a cream puff but better. It has ice cream and a puff pastry with whipped cream on top, and all of that is doused with a thick, hot chocolate sauce. I wish I could eat this every night.

Profiterole (Photo by Elizabeth Gibson)